Bottom end assembly

Install the dipstick tube into the block. Failure to do so before installing the crank will make later installation a rather awkward job, as the tube installs at an angle and the crankshaft will be in the way.

An old tube being reused should easily go right into place. A new tube may take a bit more effort. Install the tube from the bottom. A Phillips screwdriver can be inserted into the tube to minimize damage from hammering. No sealant is needed, but a dab of RTV may be good for peace of mind. Note that the cam is already installed in the picture.

If main studs are to be used, but have not yet been installed, do so now. Most directions will call for the studs to be installed with some sort of thread locking compound, main caps installed, nuts torqued to specification, and then the assembly left to dry for 24 hours. FOLLOW THE STUD MANUFACTURER'S DIRECTIONS!!

Now prepare the crank, main caps, main bearings, and rear seal for assembly. The crank will most likely have some sort of "protective" coating (typically a golden yellow colored substance) on the machined surfaces, applied by the machine shop. This coating will also be in the oil passages. It is critical that the crankshaft be cleaned as thoroughly as reasonably possible, to remove this coating and any metal shavings that may be stuck to the coating or oil passages. Use solvent, clean rags, and engine or rifle brushes to clean the crank and its oil passages. Once the crank is as clean as you feel you can get it, set it safely aside for the moment.

You may be interested in using Plasti-gauge® to verify the bearing clearances. If so, you may want to do this BEFORE installing the rear main seal. Follow the directions for the Plasti-gauge®, but make sure you clean the crank and bearings completely before final assembly. Be aware that, at this point, there is very little you can do if the clearances are not exactly what you want. You will have to contact the machine shop for help if there is a problem.

Install the rear seal halves into the block and rear main. If using a neoprene/viton/rubber type seal, follow the directions supplied with it. If using a factory rope-type seal, your best bet is to follow the factory installation procedure. I've had good luck by using a piece of large diameter pipe (close to the size of the main journal) to "roll" the rope firmly into the grooves. I then use a NEW razor blade to first make a shallow cut, using a sawing motion, completely around the circumference of the seal. Then I continue cutting around the seal, cutting deeper and deeper. Keep the blade as close to "flat" against the mating surface as you can. Trim off any loose thread ends. After all four seal ends are cut and trimmed, you are ready to prepare and install the main bearings.

Verify that you have the proper sized bearings, as indicated by the sized stamped on the back of the bearing shells. Consult with your machine shop if you are not certain about the proper bearing sizes. Identify which bearings go into the block ("upper") and which are for the caps ("lower"). Typically the block gets the "grooved" halves and the caps get the non-grooved or partially-grooved halves. Clean, prepare, and install the block bearings. Re-check the crank to assure it needs no further cleaning. Lubricate the bearings in the block, lube the sealing face of the block-mounted rear seal half, and apply RTV to the seal ends (per the seal's instructions). Remember that the thrust bearing fits into the #4 saddle on Pontiacs , not the #1 that is used on some other brands! CAREFULLY place the crank into place in the block. It should fit snuggly and securely, but should need NO force to go into place. If anything does not "feel right", stop and seek experienced help.

Repeat the bearing check, cleaning, preparation, and lubrication for the main caps and other half of rear seal. Apply any sealant required for the rear main seal mating (the surface that will contact the other seal half) faces. Observe the numbers on the caps, and install them in their proper place. Each bearing cap DOES have a "front" and "rear." One way to tell which way the bearing cap should be installed is by the bearing's locating tab, which will install towards the same side of the engine as the tab of the bearing already installed in the block {good place to have a picture - LA}. You may need the use of a rubber mallet to gently persuade the caps into place - but do NOT force ANYTHING!! Apply appropriate lube to the main bolts (or threads of studs) and thread them in finger tight. Begin torque sequence for the main bolts/studs. At the end of each step, rotate the crank to verify that it spins freely.

NOTE: Crankshaft should spin rather easily and consistently at this point. If it is taking too much effort to rotate (should take less than 60ft-lb for rope seals and 40ft-lb for "rubber" seals, as measured by a torque wrench) then stop immediately and identify the problem.

You can now check the crankshaft endplay. There is no way to reduce this measurement, if it is too big. It is also very unlikely that this clearance will be too tight, unless you happen to be using a brand new crankshaft. But, by taking this measurement now, you can use it for reference in case you have problems down the road.

Gently pry the crankshaft back a forth a few times. You can either use a dial indicator to make the measurement, or simply use a set of feeler gauges. The typical measurements are 0.XXX" to 0.XXX".

page 3 (Degreeing/Installing the Camshaft & Timing Chain)...